#1 Courtesy of Mitch Posner

QUESTION:  I need some help figuring out a problem with the right rear passenger window.  When is lowered it is like it falls out the track or something and gets cockeyed.   The only way to get it back up is to pull up on the back edge when raising the window.  Although this has been posted/answered before, I have researched and came across (one of) the best compiled answers for it:  This is for all you owners who have or WILL experience the pleasure of hearing a "POP" and finding that your window no longer rolls up correctly.

PROBLEM:  The power window regulators move the door glass via a plastic retainer that slides in a metal guide mounted on the bottom of the glass.  The standard equipment plastic retainer is a rectangle with a big hole in the middle where a ball tipped end of each regulator arm snaps into.  The plastic fails (breaks) at the narrow sections and releases the arm which causes the window to fall on one side.  This happens with age and use.  NOTE: I have found this problem on 3 of my 4 doors!!

SOLUTION:  Replace standard plastic guide with new design window roller: GM P/N 966-6748,  List: $1.90 ea.  Two required per window.  Same part works on all windows.  Also, I highly recommend purchasing new door panel retainers as old ones may break or be unusable after inside door panel removal,  GM P/N 15600382,  $0.43 ea, approximately 5 or 6 required per door.  Buy small box of aluminum or steel 3/16 diameter rivets for 1/2" depth

HOW:  Remove inside door panel,  (Sounds easy), unsnap regulator arms from bottom glass channel (if attached), REMOVE glass from door.  You must first drill out ONLY one of the 3/16 sized pop rivets that are present on each end of the channel AND remove/bend out the stops placed at the end of the channel (the same end as the rivet), Remove old retainers, grease channel with suitable grease (I used a white lithium based grease) and install two new rollers, replace pop-rivet, slide glass back into door and snap arms into rollers, and reassemble doors.  NOTE: You do NOT have to re-bend the channel stop tabs back into place as they were only there to retain the plastic retainers during assembly.

EDITOR'S NOTE:  From experience, I have found that the rivet does NOT have to be drilled out.  Bend out the stops at one end of the channel and tap out the old/broken guides and replace with new roller guides.  The stop doesn't have to be be bent back into position.

Wow!  Sounds easy!  Well, it is for those mechanically inclined.  The front doors are relatively easy but the back doors are a more difficult as they require you to remove the channel guide in order to remove the glass.  Also, getting the arms to snap into the new rollers can be difficult the first time.  You must position the glass/arms such that you can get some pliers (in position in the door) to snap the arm into the roller.  Heating the rollers helps to ease insertion (warm only as they will melt if too much heat is applied).

TOOLS REQUIRED:  Phillips screwdriver, POP-Rivet gun/pliers, large pliers, various sized screw drivers for prying etc.

OTHER:  Please retain part number of window roller otherwise you may have trouble identifying part via standard exploded view diagrams at parts counter (It is not there!!).

#2 Courtesy of Ken Orlando

Your problem is the same as many others on the list. The guide in the track has broken.  The old versions look like little torpedoes, the new replacements are round and actually roll in the channel.    Basically, you remove the door panel, bend the end (right next to the rivet) of the track (or grind a little notch with a dremel tool) on the side that failed, remove the old pink looking carrier (plastic) and replace it with the new teflon round one.  After you bend the track at the very end, just inside the rivet (you'll see what I mean if you look at it), then insert the new roller.  Take a small 2" C-clamp and press the window arm into the new roller.  I can do it in about 10 minutes after the door panel is off. 

Parts needed are:  Rollers for the windows (8 needed to do all windows), PN - 09666748, Bearing (About $1.10ea) Plastic panel fasteners (5ea front door,4 ea back door) PN - 10161510, fastener, Special (about $.19 ea as I recall).  I have done at least one roller on each window already and both on the front.  When you have the panel off it would help if you put some wheel bearing grease in the track.  This will keep the old style from binding and breaking.  If you ever have one fail in the down position you can put the window up by having someone guide it while you activate the switch.  Need any other help let me know.

NOTE - some folks will tell you to drill out the rivet, insert the new roller and replace the rivet with a screw and bolt.  It's your choice - but I always go with what's easiest and what works.  Getting those rivets out is no easy task.  Hope this helps.